Day 8 – Molokini Back wall Diving with Lahaina Divers – Final Afternoon in Napili Shores

Today I was heading back to Lahaina Diver for some Molokini Back wall Diving. One of my favourite Dives in Maui and in fact one of my favourite dives anywhere. Being in Whale season I was really hoping for some Humpback whale encounters.

Lahaina Divers

Lahaina Divers are our Go-To outfit when Diving on Maui and we spoke about them in our blog on Monday when I dived with them on Lanai two days ago. You can read about that dive trip here along with our opinion of Lahaina Divers. But one of the reasons I like them so much is they offer dives most other companies do not. Last time I dived with them I did their Hammerhead trip to Molokai and swam with large numbers of large hammerhead sharks which was utterly incredible. The Swells were making the crossing to Molokai pretty uncomfortable and a lot of trips were being cancelled so I opted for their other “top gun” dive. The Molokini Backwall.

Molokini Back Wall

Molokini Back wall Diving with Lahaina DiversPlunging into the Abyss

Molokini is a Volcanic Islet rising up in the Channel between Maui and Kaho’olawe. The sunken crater now contains a pristine Coral reef and is used for multiple snorkelling and diving tours. During the day the crater is filled with tour boats.  We were here ourselves last Sunday for a Snorkel tour and it was wonderful. One of the key pieces of information, when diving or snorkelling the crater, is DO NOT HEAD AROUND THE BACKWALL!

The Wall plunges 100m+ down into the deep abyss. With strong currents sheer walls and Patrolling sharks. It’s not a place you want to be. This is our dive site for the day!

Ride out – Whales

Molokini

On the ride out the divers are split into groups and assigned our divemasters/guides who then carry out our dive briefings. The steam to Molokini takes around 45-50 mins where there are muffins available for breakfast. During the briefing which was up on the top deck, a humpback whale surfaces only 5-10 metres from the boat! It is normally impossible to get this close to whales as there are restrictions on how close captains can get. As the Whale first broke surface this close and behind the boat, the captain had no choice in the matter. It was fantastic to see the whale this close and fingers crossed it was a sign of things to come. There were a few more sightings on the rest of the sail. With 10 mins to go, we were given the cue to gear up ready for the Wall.

Dive 1 Back Wall

Scroll down for the Video of the Dive…

Diving here is a bit different to most dives as the boat needs to get in position close to the wall in fairly rough conditions and currents and can’t simply anchour up to allow a steady drop off of divers. The system in place makes for an exciting drop-off.

As the Boat gets in position we are all lined up at the back of the boat fully geared up, A 30-seconds warning is given then 10-seconds and finally a “Dive Dive Dive!”. All divers disembark at once into the blue and the boat then powers away leaving us alone in the water. It all feels very military and is great fun. We then Begin the descent and head down to our dive depth.

ready to go

The Wall plunges straight down to well over 100m (330ft) and if you know anything about diving you will no that sort of depth is a no-no. If not then let’s just say if you dive to 100m it will probably be the last thing you do. The best life is also found much higher enjoying the Hawaain sun. This means we level off at around 20-30 meters and then just cruise along the wall this height.

The big draw of diving the back wall is that it faces NOTHING. Its rock wall vs pure blue ocean and this means anything can come cruising by. The wall is also home to a huge amount of life. Octopus, Moray eel, Reef sharks, rare nudibranchs, and a whole host of reef fish, many endemic to Hawaii. The topography is also stunning the Giant rock cliff face just plunges away into the blue. It is incredibly exhilarating.

Molokini BackwallRaining Fish

The current is strong and the dive is done as a drift and you just hold your level and drift along the wall taking in the life. All though today there was a big distraction. The Whalesong was deafeningly loud. They felt really close and our instructor spent most of the dive looking out into the blue mentally willing them to come in and say hi. Unfortunately, this was not to be and we just had their incredible song to accompany our dive.

Moorish Idols in the Blue - Molokini

At the end of our dive with my air getting towards the reserve limit we kicked away from the wall. This makes the boat extraction easier as we are not right next to the wall, with all it’s boat sinking abilities. As we hung in the water doing our safety stop the song continued but alas no whales appeared.

More Whales

During our surface interval, we had our usual lunch of ham or chicken salad sandwiches, which are really good along with Maui chips and fresh fruit. We were also treated to an incredible display from the whales that had been singing to us. There was a pod of 3/4 Adults all accompanying a newly born calf. The Captain reckoned it was hours old and it played on the surface while the adults protected it. It was incredible to witness and probably the reason they hadn’t come to say hi.

Baby HumpbackBaby Humpback on the surface

Four Winds II whale watchingLarge Adult Humpback

Dive 2 – Reefs End

The Second dive is at Reefs End. This is a little different but still covers the back wall. We are dropped off in the same fashion as before but this time right on the edge of the Molokini inner reef. This gives a quick taste of diving the inner reef but we are inserted in the exact location where snorkeler or divers are told NOT to be as they will be swept away. Which we duly were.

Molokini Backwall

This is, of course, our intention and the current pulls us round to the back side of the reef and along the wall back towards where the last dive terminated. On the reef the fish life is incredible. Molokini’s reef is teeming with fish and there is abundant healthy coral.  We saw some very large Bluefin Trevally, a white mouthed Moray and a (Harmless) White-Tip reef shark which was resting in his cave.

Bluefin_trevally at molokiniBluefin Trevally

whitetip reef Shark at MolokiniWhitetip Reef Shark

As we rounded the reef the Whalesong went up another notch it was definitely at 11 now! I couldn’t believe the song could be this loud and us not see them. We waited in awe at the sound expecting them to appear any second…Then finally out of the blue, I saw something…Something large…um…err…That’s not a whale…

Galapagos Shark at Molokini Back WallGalapagos Shark

We Watched as the large Galapagos shark cruised by. We knew there were sharks in these waters and were half expecting/hoping we would see them and really they are no threat and just spectacular to see. The shark just sailed by paying us very little attention.

That was about the end of the dive the Whales continued to sing, yet stayed away and I was getting very close to my Decompression Limit so it was time to head on up. No dive at the back wall disappoints but the teasing of the Whales and the lack of many bigger pelagic species or any giant Javanese Moray eels that often frequent the back way left me slightly disappointed, but the overall dive and the Shark appearances made for pretty damn good dive really.

Back up on the surface and the sun was really coming out for our trip home and we enjoyed a fantastic bumpy ride back to Lahaina while enjoying the fresh baked cookies and taking in the sun.

 

Full Video of the Dives here, Check out the Galapagos shark at the End and the incredible Whalesong.

Back to the Condo

Back at the Condo, the sun was out and the temperatures high. It was a beautiful day and one with an incredible twist. Kate had spent the morning busily doing nothing by the ocean. And ocean that had completely changed character…

Surf

The bay was now being pounded by huge breakers. The wind and surf had changed direction and now large waves rolled into our usually placid little bay and were smashing against the rocks and shore. We ordered take out from the Gazebo and then spent the afternoon just relaxing with drinks while watching the oceans fury.

Napili Bay - Surf

Napili Bay - Surfing

Napili Bay - SurfThere is a man in there somewhere!

There were several Surfers out enjoying the surf but other than that the ocean was a scary place to be today but We could just sit and watch it for hours…and we did. Helped along by copious Mai Tais. We would love to have had one last snorkel with the turtles but it would have been very dangerous today.

Final BBQ – Hot Tub Cocktails

We ended our day with another BBQ. We cooked outside almost every night and find it’s a great way to enjoy the Hawaiian lifestyle without breaking the bank. We get such limited opportunity to cook outside at home we really took advantage.

After enjoying the BEST sunset of the trip we loaded up with cocktails and headed to the hot tub to finish off our stay in our favourite place in the world. It was odd we still had 4/5 days left of the trip but it was already feeling over. By the end of tomorrow, we would need another break!

Napili Bay SunsetFantastic Sendoff from Napili Bay

Day 9 – Leaving Napili – IAO Valley – Wailea – Te Au Moana luau  >>>

<<< Day 7 – Airport Beach Morning Kaanapali Beach Afternoon

2 thoughts on “Day 8 – Molokini Back wall Diving with Lahaina Divers – Final Afternoon in Napili Shores”

  1. Wow, I really enjoyed reading all about your Molokini diving. I was felt like I was there diving with your group.

    I’m glad we share the same passion of the amazing humpback whales and anything to do with diving. Wall diving and drift diving are definitely my favourite types of diving.

    Your pictures are excellent and your video quite entertaining. I love listening to the whale songs. Even though you didn’t get to see them underwater, I’m sure they were watching you.

    The newly born baby calfs might have been supported by the moms underneath them.

    What underwater camera are you using?

    Thanks for a great review of your Molokini diving. I’ll definitely have to join Lahaina Diver.
    Monica

    Reply
    • Hi Monica,

      Really glad you enjoyed the article. The Molokini Backwall is one of the best dives in Hawaii and we are glad we go the beauty and excitement of the dive across.

      The Whalesong was so incredible. The first time I heard it I could barely believe it, Something you hear on nature programs but don’t imagine would actually be like that in real life. It was great seeing the baby taking their first steps in life. The Mother and the matriarchal group were all assisting the calf but it did appear to be able to swim by itself already and was already doing a few practice breaches!

      Yeah we are sure they knew we were there just didn’t fancy saying hello that day. Probably too pre-occupied with the calf.

      Actually, it was just a cheap, SJCam only cost a $50 a couple of years back I just wanted to start documenting my dives. Looking to upgrade before the next trip to a Go Pro. But still a long way from the $1000s cameras some use on the dive trips!

      Hope you make it to Hawaii soon and enjoy some of the wonderful diving out there. The humpback visit every winter and are just incredible to see!

      Thanks

      Steve

      Reply

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